first off let me just say - if you haven't surfed or wavesailed then I feel sorry for you.
i won't go all weird and talk about how pure and spiritual the sport is cause I don't think that's what it's about.
it's just a hell of a lot of fun.
if you've skied you've felt this before but it's much more than that. it's hard to explain but to borrow from Lori
Petty's character in Point Break, if you've tried this before I don't have to explain.
when I came out to hawaii sure I came out for the waves.
I wanted to learn and I figured on no better place to start. but so many people go and never come back...
I was ready to criticise the shit out of them but many I spoke to were so happy.
fine, so ignorance is bliss, we all knew this but faced with the prospect of all these guys stoked every day, just
to be out sailing or surfing, I changed my point of view somewhat.
best excuse I heard was a friend who claimed he's out in hawaii to "serve as inspiration to all the guys in
dead-end city jobs" - yeah whatever...
ok so they're fucked when they're 40 but then what does Joe Schmoe in Goldman Sachs have when he's 40.
a coupla houses, a coupla cars, a big family...and then he can do what - sit down, retire and maybe come to
hawaii...shit they been doing that since they were 15....think about it...they're living most people's dreams.
the skaters similarity doesn't actually stand. they're mostly dropouts.
dropouts....guess the guys in hawaii are dropouts too. they dropped out from society.
I know I can't do that and in a small way I'll always be jealous of them. however, at least I can take a small
measure of pride in the fact that I dropped out and went over for three months...as little as that may seem to
you, it's no small decision when all your peers are grinding away earning their keep...